YLB’s Top 5 Affordable Local Restaurants
While affordable local restaurants are getting phased out for instagram favourites, there are still plenty of places to get an authentic Portuguese meal without going broke.
I think my page about Portugal’s Dining Culture will be useful before you go.
If you’d like some guidance on what to order, here’s a handy list of portuguese dishes.
I know “Affordable” is an objective term, but for this list I’m saying somewhere around 22-30 euro for a main, a desert and a drink+coffee. If you want even cheaper than that, check out my Top 5 Tasca list.
Agua Livres
One of my favourite places to take visitors that isn’t on the usual must-do lists is the Reservatório da Mãe d'Água das Amoreiras , an elaborate 18th century water reservoir in Rato. And then I take them to Agua Livres. I eat there even when I don’t have guests. They have all the classics and the all-male wait staff are welcoming. Also good for groups of 6 or 8.
Bestie Tip: Right on the doorstep is the gallery of Maria Helena Vieira da Silva (and her husband Arpad Szenes), one of Portugal’s most influential abstract artists. They lead extraordinary lives, I highly recommend it.
O Pitéu da Graça
A haven for locals in a touristy spot, this place gets seriously rammed. Among the organised chaos you’ll see neighbors greeting one author as they come and go. Book ahead if you can and let them know on arrival, or you’ll be left standing at the door like a sore thumb. If this is turning you off, trust me, it’s worth it.
A Trempe
When I say this place is family run, I mean the every member of the fam works here (just remember what I said about service). The food is focused on the Alentejo region, everything is super tasty! The decor is quaint. Located across from the Fernando Pessoa museum, but not touristy.
Bestie tip: They’ll automatically bring everything but the kitchen sink to the table. Remember nothing is free, but do keep the samosa couvert, they’re delish.
Escondidinho da Curva do Ferragial
A sweet little hideaway in the center of all things tacky & touristy. The yumyum to kachingching ratio is probably unmatched in the whole of Lisbon, it basically feels like getting rewarded for robbery. The entrance is inconspicuous, keep looking, I promise it’s there (the name roughly translates to Hidden on the Ferragial Street’s Curve).
O Lavrador
I really wanted to put this in my Tasca Top 5 as it does have the TV’s, the paper tablecloth, ugly stemware and most importantly, the ludicrously cheap bill. But after seeking the serious counsel of the Portuguese friend with whom I frequent here, he disallowed it based on the size (3 decent interconnecting rooms)...and, well, it’s technically churasqueria (barbeque place). Fine.
Pedantics aside, this is my go-to spot for that famous Portuguese charcoal chicken. They still have the daily specials and other dishes but the frango is where it’s at. And don’t forget to slather on the piripiri!
Located down the road from Estrela Jardim, I’m there far to often so if you see me, do say high!
Honorable mention: Praia Velha
Only on the honorable list due to location - a 15 mins train along the Tejo River to Parco do Arcos. This used to be a casual local neighbourhood but wowee, there’s a saturation of restaurants that are $$$$. Among them all, Praia Velha holds fast, where daily specials and wine in a carafe is still a thing. The seafood is fresh and the vibes are good - the tone is set by the owner’s genuinely friendly service. Last time we were there the Portuguese couple at the next table offered us a try of their Arros de Marisco (Seafood Rice)!
Bestie tip: Have a little sundowner on the rooftop of Madrasta while you're there.