YLB’s Top 5 Tascas
These restaurants are not in your instagram feed. They aren’t trendy or trending. These are the no-frills, essentially family run local joints for local people. Tascas, my dear besties, are the absolute heart and soul of Portuguese dining.
The food is cheap, the menu is traditional with a daily special (prato do dia). Maybe because of this I’ve heard them called bistros but I find that misleading - you sure ain’t gonna get any Amélie vibes! Usually, there is a TV (or several) on the wall that’s muted but never off, eternally switching between news and football. If the table cloth is just paper, there’s no background music of any kind, the wine glasses are chunky & ugly and the decor hasn’t been touched since the 70’s or 80’s, you’re in the right place!
Before going, my Portuguese Dining Culture page will help you feel right at home.
O Bitoque
A haven for the locals of Campo do Ourique. While I feel a bit guilty infiltrating them with our besties, it’s too good to gatekeep! It can get mega busy so choose your timing wisely. And of course, get the bitoque , though I usually have the peru (turkey). Also great for solo diners if you can get a seat at the bar.
Principe Calhariz
Smack in the heart of Bica, this tasca is a deceptively decent size with efficient service, so even when it’s rammed it’s not too long to wait till you get a seat. Rather than waiting outside, I prefer to stand squished at the bar and chat with the (surprisingly welcoming) neighborhood blokes who have been having their early evening cerveja (beer) here long before tourists discovered the city.
Bestie tip: Vampires beware - they are even heavier on the garlic here than tradition calls for!
Cascais Remo
Off one of my favourite squares in the city centre, Praça da Alegria, I like to come here with my mates after a tipple at the quiosque there. Extra authentic points for the hand written menu and cash only till. Longish tables so it’s kind of communal. Just remember what I said about the service on my Dining Culture page…
O Mateus
A rarity in that it’s open Saturday AND Sunday for both lunch and dinner. Hubby & I got chatting with a local guy at a nearby brew pub one afternoon. After realising we really enjoying each other's company, he suggested we move on to dinner together at his local, O Mateus. We still go there (and we’re still good friends with the guy we met!).
Bestie Tip: If it’s full, you can usually get a spot at the larger Taverna d'alcantara nearby.
Tasca do Bairro
Very simple food, you will likely get only two choices - meat or fish. For me though, the service is why it gets on this list. Fernando is a delight, he is jovial and super welcoming, with impecable English so you will feel very comfortable. Let him take care of you. Last time I was there, 2 meals + salad + 1 litre of wine came to a total of €29.
Note: The downside is the bathroom hasn’t been cleaned since about 1982. Thankfully it’s an open kitchen and you can see it’s in much better shape.
The reality is tascas are getting phased out the more gentrification happens, so as is Bestie code, please spend some of your moolah at a local business!