Wine Bars
Wine in Portugal is considered a basic human right, and I am not one to argue.
You can find people having a glass of red at lunch in a shopping mall’s food court, you can order a jarro (carafe) of house wine in any tasca for a few euros, and you’ve probably already realised many portuguese supermarket wines can be cheaper than water.
But there are also some fabulous wine bars showcasing smaller producers who are making exceptional wines. If, like me, a decent vinho is your preferred tipple, read on for my favourite wine bars in the city.
I’d tell you to drink responsibly, but I’m no hypocrite. Saude!
Arinto
In the unpolished neighbourhood of Alcântara lies the smooth gem that is Arinto. Here, it’s all about the terroir. Pedro has meticulously chosen each of the wines as the showcase of their particular region. And he covers them all, from Dão to Bairrada, the Algarve to the Azores, let him show you there’s more to Portuguese wines than the Douro Valley. The interior is adorable too and there’s snacks available if you’re peckish.
Note: He also has a separate section for natural wines if that’s more your thing.
Insaciável
Whether sitting inside or outside, the atmosphere here is always great. The wines change constantly, which I’m a fan of as I come here often enough but always get to experience something new. You will usually be given a try of 2 or 3 wines so you can decide which is your preferred glass. I usually dive right in and get a bottle of whatever they recommend to us - having been here many times I’ve yet to have anything less than fabulous.
Bestie Tip : They do small plates here and all the food here is fantastic. Please get the leek (alho francês), you can thank me later.
Graca Do Vinho
Whenever I’m in Graca in the evening, I stop here for a glass of wine and a nibble of cheese. With a cool yet unpretentious atmosphere, it’s simple but they know what they are doing. The location used to be a pharmacy in the mid 1930s so it’s not a big place, but perfect with one or 2 friends, or a date night. I also like to come here after dinner to have a port as my digestivo.
Bestie Tip: They also do a 3 flight porto tasting which is good if you're bringing visitors, but if you really want to kick off your night, have an aguardente. Just don’t come crying to me the next morning.
Winenonymous
I have a confession to make: Portuguese rosé just doesn’t do it for me. Which is a bit of a shame as I’m a basic girly who likes the pink stuff. Thank goodness for Winenoymous! I’ve finally found a Portuguese rosé that I genuinely like, and it’s also available by the glass. The lovely owner, Philippe, opened a wineshop near Estrela de Jardim to showcase his wines. He also has hand selected personal favourites from his peers in the industry, mostly smaller producers from the Douro region. You can have a glass (or several) or you can leave with a bottle that will suit whatever your budget or occasion.
Bestie Tip : Post-work Friday drinks when ostrasmarotas shuck fresh oysters is where it’s at.
R. Domingos Sequeira 64B, Estrela | Website
Pinot Bar de Vinhos
Part of the respected Senhor Uva crew, this bar is a neighborhood favourite. Facing the lovely Jardim da Estrela, the selection is large and the staff are great. If you can, grab a seat out front to be within patting range of all the neighbourhood dogs. It’s open everyday from 4pm so do yourself a favour and avoid the terrible wine with atrocious service at the Banana Cafe quiosque at the Basilica end of the garden, and come here instead.
Madame Bacchas
Favoured by tourists and the neighbourhood folk alike, this petite place has nice seating outside in the praça (piazza) when the weather is good. Run by a French family, the owners are super welcoming and knowledgeable though I think the fun they always seem to be having brings good vibes. Nice small plates enhance the experience when you want a little tipple in the afternoon sun and later there’s often live music inside.
Club de Chateux
Recommending a French wine bar feels rather sinful, but I feel obliged to tell you about Lisboa’s best happy hour - 2.50 eu for a glass of decent wine is pretty unbeatable. The decor is thoughtful and lovely, the front bar is done like a pretty French salon (though I prefer the back where the lighting isn’t so harsh). Bruno, the sommelier is an absolute superstar but he’s not always there. The last time I went the staff didn't seem to care about the wine (or service), but for that price, who’s complaining? If you want to quaff wine on a pauper's budget in a princess’s environment, you can do that here from 5-7pm.
If If If
Think you’ve had all the Portuguese wine you can possibly imbibe? Ready for something different? Then head here for Georgian wine. Tucked on a street between Principe Real and Avenida Liberdade, this tiny place is worth popping into for something new. You will be surprised how great the Georgian wine is, made even better by the friendly reception. Due to the size, food is limited, but do get the khalinki if available (traditional soup dumplings).
Honourable Mention: Adega Belem Urban Winery
I’m going a bit off-piste here, as this is a cellar door, not a winebar, and is in Belem, not technically in the city, but I absolutely must recommend this place. You can make bookings for tastings, or you can do as I do and just pop in for a glass (or more) when in the area. It’s especially great if you're already taking visitors to the sites and monuments on the waterfront. You will likely be served by one of the hard-working owners, David and Catarina, which gives such a personal touch - you can taste their passion for what they do in each glass.
Note: Check the hours, this is a working winery first and foremost, not really a night spot.